A Tea Lover's Guide to Yorkshire: Brews, Bakeries, and Beautiful Scenery
Yorkshire is a county that takes its tea seriously. It is home to one of the most famous tea brands in Britain, and its cafes and tearooms reflect a deep love of a proper brew. But Yorkshire is also a place of dramatic scenery, from the moors to the dales, and a cup of tea tastes even better after a long walk in the fresh air. This guide is for anyone who wants to combine a love of tea with a love of the great British countryside.
Start in York, a city that seems to have a tearoom on every street. The most famous is Betty's, a Yorkshire institution since 1919, where you can enjoy a traditional afternoon tea in a grand setting with waitresses in black dresses and white aprons. The queue can be long, but it moves quickly, and the experience is worth it. For something quieter, try one of the smaller tearooms tucked away in the Shambles or along the river. Many serve Yorkshire tea, of course, alongside scones and cakes. I particularly like a little place near the Minster that does a wonderful Yorkshire curd tart, a local speciality made with currants and a hint of nutmeg.
Into the Dales and Moors
Once you leave the city, the tea experiences become more rustic and no less enjoyable. In the Yorkshire Dales, you will find farm shops and cafes that serve tea in proper mugs with a jug of milk on the side. After a walk up a hill or along a river, there is nothing better than a pot of strong tea and a slice of fruit cake. Many of these places also offer cream teas, though in Yorkshire the cream is often served under the jam, which is a matter of some local pride. Do not argue about it. Just enjoy it.
On the North York Moors, the villages of Hutton-le-Hole and Goathland are lovely spots for a break. Goathland, familiar to many as the setting for a certain television programme about a country vet, has a couple of charming tearooms where you can sit outside and watch the world go by. The tea is straightforward and good, and the cakes are generous. If you are walking the Cleveland Way or the Coast to Coast path, these tearooms become havens of warmth and comfort.
Tea with a View
Some of the best tea moments in Yorkshire come with a view. There are cafes on the edge of the moors where you can sit by a window and look out over miles of heather and sky. There are tearooms in fishing villages on the coast where the tea comes with a side of sea air. And there are historic houses and gardens where afternoon tea is served in elegant surroundings. Each has its own character, but they all share a commitment to doing tea properly.
If you are planning a tea tour of Yorkshire, my advice is to build in plenty of time for walking. The tea will taste better if you have earned it. Carry a flask for the moments when you are far from a cafe, and stop whenever you see a sign for a tearoom. Yorkshire people are friendly, the portions are generous, and the tea is always hot. It is a county that understands that tea is not just a drink but a way of life. Go, and drink deeply.